Managing water key to leather sector's climate resilience: report

The leather industry has achieved a 37% reduction in water usage over the last 25 years, according to a new sector report by Leather Naturally, a Netherlands-based, not-for-profit industry association. The study, titled Sustainable Water Management in the Leather Industry, highlights a decoupling of production from resource consumption as the global sector faces mounting climate-related water stress.

The report reveals that average water consumption has dropped from 60 cubic meters per ton of hides in 1994 to approximately 38 cubic meters today. Modern tanneries utilizing advanced "low float" and "batch washing" techniques are reportedly operating at even higher efficiency levels.

"Water is the lifeblood of leather making, but it is also a strategic risk," the report states. With UNESCO predicting that global water demand will exceed supply by up to 30% by 2050, the industry is increasingly shifting toward circular management systems. Currently, 95% of the water used in leather production is discharged back into the system after purification, with only 5% lost to evaporation.

The ‘beamhouse’ phase which is the initial stage where hides are prepared for tanning remains the most water-intensive part of the process, accounting for up to 50% of total consumption. To address this, the report spotlights emerging technologies such as ECCO’s ‘DriTan,’ which saves an estimated 20 liters of water per hide, and the ‘GreenLIFE’ project, which has successfully cut water usage by 70% in initial production stages.

The study also addresses the broader environmental footprint of materials, noting that while leather production accounts for just 0.02% of global water consumption, its perception is often hampered by historical mismanagement. It further provides a comparative analysis of synthetic alternatives, noting that while "vegan" leathers may use less water in direct assembly, their total lifecycle footprint, including ‘grey water’ needed to mitigate plastic pollution, often exceeds that of responsibly tanned leather.

To ensure long-term resilience, the report calls for the adoption of the EN 18199 Leather Traceability Cluster standard and expanded use of the ‘Hide Eco Track’ system. Industry leaders, including representatives from COTANCE and JBS Couros, contributed case studies to the report, emphasizing that sustainable water management is no longer a choice but a prerequisite for market access in an increasingly regulated global economy.