Kanpur’s leather industry embraces adopts echo-friendly sustainable practices

Kanpur in Uttar Pradesh boasts a long-established leather industry, with two major clusters in Jajmau and Unnao. While this industry plays a significant role in boosting the local economy, it also poses serious environmental challenges, contributing to issues like water pollution. As a result, there has been a rise in regulatory inspections and operational restrictions to address these problems.

It is in this context that Kanpur’s tanneries are turning to innovative sustainable practices, like Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) systems and water recycling, to lessen their environmental impact. Faced with both environmental and operational challenges, Unnao’s tannery cluster is taking collaborative steps and embracing new technologies to transform how they operate.

Taj Alam, the Managing Director of Kings International Ltd., a three-decade old company based in the industrial town of Unnao, recounted that about ten years ago, environmental issues, especially water pollution, started to take a serious toll on business operations. This not only damaged the local leather sector's reputation but also led to a significant drop in exports.

These were the concerns that prompted Alam and 17 other factory owners in Unnao to take a significant step in 2016 by investing in Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) treatment plants. Their goal was to make 80 per cent of the water used in their processes reusable. To support this effort, Alam set up a laboratory within his factory, where his team rigorously tests the recycled water to ensure its purity and explores ways to optimize the plant’s operations for maximum efficiency.

The recycling process consists of several stages, beginning with sedimentation tanks that remove large solids and suspended particles. The water then goes through advanced filtration methods, including sand filters and membrane filtration, to eliminate finer particulates and dissolved chemicals such as chromium, salts, and tanning agents. Afterward, the water is tested in the lab to ensure it meets the necessary standards for reuse. Once it receives approval, it can be used in the next stage of production.

Additionally, many tanneries in Unnao have begun replacing sodium sulfide, a hazardous and corrosive chemical, with enzymes for the liming process. Sodium sulfide can release toxic gases that are harmful if inhaled and poses a risk of soil and water contamination. In contrast, enzymes biodegrade naturally, offering a much safer alternative.

In 2016, Alam received an innovation award for tanneries in Kanpur, recognizing his implementation of cleaner technologies. This accolade not only brought international attention to his sustainability initiatives but also led to a 30 per cent increase in his exports. The award was organized by UNIDO (United Nations Industrial Development Organization) in collaboration with the Council for Leather Exports and the Kanpur Unnao Leather Cluster Development Company. The award, along with the support from UNIDO, positively impacted local small and medium enterprises (SMEs), helping them achieve sustainable integration into both domestic and international supply chains.