From controversy to collaboration: Prada embraces the Made in India label
LW Desk
What began as a dispute over cultural appropriation has evolved into a high-stakes industrial partnership. Italian luxury group Prada has announced the launch of a ‘Made in India’ sandal collection, priced at approximately Rs 85,000 ($930), following a diplomatic and commercial row over the traditional Kolhapuri chappal.
The controversy surfaced earlier this year when the Milan-based fashion house debuted a footwear line that mirrored the aesthetic of the 12th-century Kolhapuri design. Critics and artisans accused the brand of ‘cultural theft’ for marketing the heritage design at luxury price points without credit or compensation to the original craft clusters in Maharashtra and Karnataka.
In a move to mitigate reputational risk and formalize its supply chain, Prada has entered into a formal Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with two Indian state-run entities: the Sant Rohidas Leather Industries and Charmakar Development Corporation (LIDCOM) of Maharashtra, and the Dr. Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries Development Corporation (LIDKAR) of Karnataka.
Under the terms of the agreement, 2,000 pairs of sandals will be manufactured by local artisans using traditional hand-moulding and stitching techniques. This collaboration represents a structural shift for Prada, moving from independent design imitation to a supervised ‘Made in India’ production model.
The partnership has been elevated to a matter of bilateral trade. Union Minister for Commerce and Industries, Piyush Goyal, convened with Italy’s Deputy Prime Minister Antonio Tajani to finalize the framework of the deal. The Indian government views this as a pilot for a broader export strategy; Goyal indicated that integrating traditional crafts into global luxury supply chains could scale the Kolhapuri footwear market into a $1 billion annual export industry.
To ensure the product meets European luxury benchmarks, Prada has committed to a three-year technical training program for the participating artisans. Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, stated that the initiative is designed to serve as a ‘multiplier of awareness,’ elevating the global profile of Indian leather craftsmanship while ensuring economic returns for the creators.
The Made in India collection is scheduled for a global rollout in February 2026. The sandals will be distributed through 40 select Prada flagship boutiques and the brand’s digital storefronts.
By transitioning from a model of appropriation to one of official procurement, the Prada-LIDCOM-LIDKAR alliance sets a new precedent for how multinational corporations interact with geographically protected traditional knowledge. The success of this venture will likely determine the feasibility of similar heritage-to-luxury corridors in the future.
